The concept of birthstones, gemstones associated with specific months or zodiac signs, has a rich and evolving history. While modern lists are largely influenced by availability and cost, the tradition itself stretches back centuries, with early associations rooted in astrological beliefs. Today, birthstones remain popular choices for jewelry, often selected for their aesthetic appeal and perceived symbolic meaning. However, the market is also filled with imitations, making it crucial for consumers to understand how to distinguish between genuine gemstones and their synthetic or artificial counterparts. This article will explore the characteristics of genuine and imitation birthstones, providing guidance on identifying authenticity and understanding common practices within the gemstone trade.
A History of Representation
The selection of gemstones as birthstones wasn’t a static process. Initially, the connection between stones and months was tied to the zodiac, with each sign linked to specific gems believed to possess corresponding energies. As noted in available sources, this influence is still visible in some modern lists, such as the association of garnet with January, reflecting the air element attributed to that zodiac sign, and amethyst with February, linked to the water element. However, the practicalities of gemstone trade – accessibility, cost, and availability – ultimately played a significant role in standardizing the modern birthstone list, particularly in North America, at the start of the 20th century. The tradition of assigning gemstones to specific days of the week, based on planetary energies, also offers an alternative approach to selecting stones, with options ranging from gold topaz for Sunday to diamond for Saturday.
Genuine vs. Imitation: Understanding the Materials
Genuine birthstones are natural gemstones, formed through geological processes over millions of years. These stones often exhibit variations in color and may contain natural inclusions, which are considered hallmarks of authenticity. However, the term “birthstone” also encompasses semi-precious variants, meaning that multiple gemstones can be associated with a single month.
Imitation birthstones, conversely, are manufactured to resemble natural gems. These fall into several categories. Some are synthetic gemstones, created in a laboratory but possessing the same chemical composition as their natural counterparts – for example, synthetic sapphires and rubies. These are not considered “fake” in the same way as other imitations, but it’s important to be aware of their origin. More commonly, imitation birthstones are made from materials like cubic zirconia (CZ), glass, or crystal. Cubic zirconia is a widely used diamond simulant, while glass and crystal are often employed to mimic colored gemstones. Lab-grown synthetics are also available on the market.
Identifying Authenticity: Key Indicators
Determining whether a birthstone is genuine requires careful observation and, ideally, professional expertise. Several tests and visual inspections can provide clues.
Color: Real gemstones typically exhibit a more vivid and deep color due to their natural formation. Imitations, particularly those made of glass or CZ, may have an overly bright or even coloring that appears unnatural. For example, a genuine sapphire possesses a rich, deep blue hue, whereas a fake might appear more electric.
Weight: Gemstones have a specific gravity, meaning they should feel heavier for their size compared to imitations. A stone that feels unusually light may be made of glass or a synthetic material.
Cut: Real gemstones are cut to maximize their natural beauty, resulting in sharp, clean facets. Imitation stones often have poorly executed cuts with uneven or rounded edges.
Inclusions and Bubbles: Using a magnifying glass, inspect the stone for inclusions. Natural gemstones often contain internal imperfections, while bubbles are a strong indicator of glass or synthetic materials.
The Fog Test: This simple test can help differentiate between a diamond and a simulant. Breathe on the stone, as if fogging a mirror. A real diamond dissipates heat quickly and will not remain foggy for long. An imitation will stay fogged for a few seconds.
The Water Test: Diamonds are denser than most imitations. Dropping a loose stone into a glass of water will reveal whether it sinks (genuine diamond) or floats/remains suspended (likely a fake).
Acetone Test: This test is specifically for identifying dyed sapphires. Applying a small amount of acetone on a cotton swab and rubbing it on the stone will reveal blue dye if the sapphire has been artificially colored. However, this test should be performed with caution, as acetone can damage some gemstones.
Common Misleading Names and Treatments
The gemstone trade has historically been prone to mislabeling and the use of misleading names. A list compiled by one source details numerous examples, such as “Adelaide ruby” being a trade name for almandite garnet, or “Brazilian ruby” referring to red or pink topaz. It is crucial to be aware of these deceptive practices and to rely on accurate gemological names when purchasing gemstones.
Furthermore, certain treatments are common in the gemstone industry. Heat treatment, for example, is widely accepted for sapphires as it can enhance clarity and improve color without fundamentally altering the stone’s properties. However, treatments like dyeing or fracture-filling can be less stable and may damage the stone if not properly cared for. Reputable sellers should disclose any treatments applied to a gemstone.
Specific Gemstones and Their Imitations
While the principles of identification apply broadly, some gemstones are particularly susceptible to imitation. Sapphire, for instance, is frequently imitated with glass, cubic zirconia, and dyed chalcedony. The sources emphasize the importance of purchasing sapphire from a reputable seller who can verify its origin and any treatments it may have undergone. Citrine, the birthstone for November, is also sometimes misrepresented, with heat-treated amethyst being sold as the genuine article.
The Importance of Reputable Sellers and Professional Appraisal
Given the complexities of gemstone identification, purchasing from a reputable seller is paramount. A trustworthy jeweler will be transparent about the origin and treatments of their stones and will provide accurate information about their quality. If you are unsure about the authenticity of a gemstone, seeking a professional appraisal from a certified gemologist is the most reliable course of action. Gemologists have the training and equipment to perform advanced tests, such as spectroscopy and X-ray diffraction, to definitively determine a stone’s identity and authenticity.
Sources
- List of False or Misleading Gemstone Names
- How Gemstones are Selected as Birthstones
- How to Know if My September Birthstone is Heat-Treated or Dyed?
- How to Spot Fake Jewelry Tips for Identifying Real Diamonds and Gemstones
- What’s the Difference Between Real Gemstones and Imitation Birthstones
- Birthstones by Month, Colors, and Meaning
Conclusion
The world of birthstones is one of beauty, history, and symbolism. However, it is also a market where imitations are prevalent. By understanding the characteristics of genuine and imitation gemstones, employing basic identification techniques, and prioritizing purchases from reputable sellers, consumers can ensure they are acquiring authentic and valuable pieces. A professional appraisal provides the ultimate assurance of authenticity, safeguarding your investment and allowing you to fully appreciate the natural wonder of these captivating gems.