The tradition of associating gemstones with specific months, and thereby with individuals born in those months, has a long and fascinating history. While the standardization of birthstones is a relatively recent phenomenon—formalized in the United States in 1912 by the National Association of Jewelers—the roots of this practice extend back millennia. In Britain, this tradition is particularly rich, interwoven with Victorian sentimentality, local mining traditions, and unique cultural interpretations. This article explores the history of British birthstones, detailing the traditional and modern associations, and the enduring appeal of these gems.
The earliest origins of birthstone associations can be traced to the biblical breastplate of Aaron, adorned with twelve gemstones representing the tribes of Israel. Scholars like Flavius Josephus and St. Jerome, in the 1st and 5th centuries AD, attempted to correlate these stones with the months of the year and the zodiac signs, suggesting that individuals should possess all twelve and wear them in sequence throughout the year. However, the path to the modern birthstone chart was far from linear, evolving through gem traders’ marketing strategies and astrological beliefs.
The Victorian Era and Sentimental Jewellery
The Victorian era in Britain witnessed a surge in the popularity of birthstones, particularly within the realm of sentimental jewellery. This period, known for its elaborate mourning rituals and expressions of affection, embraced the symbolism inherent in gemstones. Jewellery became a means of conveying secret messages and expressing deep emotions. A particularly charming example of this practice involved crafting brooches that spelled out words like "DEAREST" using diamonds, emeralds, amethysts, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and topazes. Giving a piece of jewellery set with a recipient’s birthstone was considered a thoughtful and stylish gesture, a tradition that continues to resonate today.
Traditional and Modern British Birthstones
While the modern birthstone chart largely aligns with its American counterpart, Britain maintains some distinct traditional associations. The standardization efforts of the Jewelers of America in 1912, and subsequent updates, introduced “modern” birthstones alongside the more historically rooted “traditional” options. For many months, individuals in Britain have the freedom to choose between these alternatives, adding a layer of personalization to the selection process.
Here’s a breakdown of the birthstones by month, highlighting the key differences between traditional and modern British preferences:
| Month | Traditional Birthstone(s) | Modern Birthstone(s) |
|---|---|---|
| January | Garnet | Garnet |
| February | Amethyst | Amethyst |
| March | Bloodstone | Aquamarine, Bloodstone (UK) |
| April | Diamond | Diamond |
| May | Emerald | Emerald |
| June | Pearl, Moonstone | Pearl, Moonstone, Alexandrite |
| July | Ruby | Ruby |
| August | Sardonyx | Sardonyx, Peridot, Spinel |
| September | Sapphire | Sapphire |
| October | Opal | Opal, Tourmaline |
| November | Topaz | Topaz, Citrine |
| December | Turquoise | Turquoise, Zircon, Tanzanite |
Several key distinctions emerge when comparing British traditions to the standardized lists. Bloodstone holds a stronger association with March in Britain than aquamarine, reflecting a historical preference for this deep green stone flecked with red. Similarly, Sardonyx was the traditional choice for August before peridot gained prominence. Moonstone is frequently cited alongside pearl for June, and turquoise remains a particularly beloved stone for December birthdays in the UK, often favored over blue topaz.
British Gemstone Heritage and Local Sources
Britain boasts a rich geological history and a tradition of gemstone mining, contributing to the unique character of its birthstone associations. Welsh gold, sourced from the Snowdonia region, is famously used in royal wedding rings, symbolizing enduring love and national pride. During the 18th and 19th centuries, Cornish and Scottish stones were highly prized for their rarity and distinctive qualities. Opals, imported through British trading networks, experienced a surge in popularity in the late 1800s, further solidifying October’s birthstone fame. These local connections imbue British birthstones with a sense of place and heritage.
Beyond the Monthly Chart: Alternative Selection Methods
The choice of a birthstone isn’t limited to the monthly chart. Several alternative methods offer a more personalized approach. Individuals can choose based on birthstone colors, selecting a gem that resonates with their aesthetic preferences. The symbolic meanings associated with each stone can also guide the selection process, opting for a gem whose attributes align with one’s personality or aspirations.
Furthermore, some individuals prefer to align their birthstone with their zodiac sign rather than their birth month, embracing a more astrological approach. Another intriguing tradition involves selecting a gemstone based on the day of the week on which one was born:
| Day of the Week | Stone | Color |
|---|---|---|
| Sunday | Gold Topaz | Gold |
| Monday | Moonstone/Pearl | White/Cream |
| Tuesday | Ruby/Garnet | Red |
| Wednesday | Turquoise/Sapphire/Lapis Lazuli | Blue/Green |
| Thursday | Amethyst | Purple |
| Friday | Emerald | Green |
| Saturday | Diamond | Clear |
This practice stems from the ancient belief that calendar days were named after the sun, moon, and planets, and that corresponding gemstones could absorb and transmit their energies to the wearer.
The Enduring Appeal of Birthstone Jewellery
The enduring popularity of birthstone jewellery speaks to a deep-seated human desire for personalization, symbolism, and connection to the past. Whether chosen based on tradition, astrological alignment, or personal preference, birthstones offer a tangible link to one’s identity and a beautiful expression of individuality. The practice of gifting birthstone jewellery remains a timeless tradition, conveying thoughtfulness, affection, and a touch of old-world charm. The history of British birthstones, with its unique cultural nuances and local heritage, adds another layer of richness to this enduring tradition.
Conclusion
The story of British birthstones is a captivating blend of ancient lore, Victorian sentimentality, and local geological heritage. While the standardization of birthstones in the 20th century provided a common framework, Britain retains distinct traditional associations and alternative selection methods, offering individuals a personalized and meaningful way to connect with these beautiful gemstones. From the symbolic power of the Aaron’s breastplate to the intricate messages woven into Victorian jewellery, the tradition of birthstones continues to thrive, offering a timeless expression of identity, affection, and enduring style.