Birthstones have long been cherished for their symbolic, aesthetic, and cultural significance. Rooted in ancient traditions and formalized in the early 20th century, the American birthstone list reflects both historical continuity and modern adaptability. This article provides a comprehensive exploration of the origins, evolution, and properties of the American birthstone system, with a particular emphasis on the role of the National Association of Jewelers (now Jewelers of America) in standardizing the list. Drawing on a synthesis of historical records, gemological data, and cultural traditions, we examine the key milestones in the development of the modern birthstone chart and the enduring appeal of these gems in jewelry and personal expression.
Introduction
The concept of birthstones—assigning a specific gemstone to each month of the year—has deep historical roots and widespread cultural resonance. While the origins of this tradition are varied and multifaceted, the modern American birthstone system was formally established in 1912 by the National Association of Jewelers. This organization sought to create a standardized list that would be both practical and marketable for American jewelers. The resulting list combined historical customs with considerations of availability, cost, and aesthetic appeal. Over the decades, the list has seen several revisions, notably in 1952 and 2002, and most recently in 2016 with the addition of spinel for August.
This article delves into the historical background of the American birthstone system, its formalization in the 20th century, and the gemological properties of the stones included in the modern list. It also examines the cultural and symbolic meanings associated with these stones and highlights the differences between the modern and traditional birthstone lists. By exploring these aspects, we gain a deeper understanding of the enduring relevance of birthstones in the world of jewelry and personal adornment.
History and Lore
The tradition of assigning gemstones to months of the year is not uniquely American; it has roots in various ancient cultures. For example, the earliest known reference to this practice appears in the Breastplate of Aaron, described in the Bible (Exodus 28:15–30), which lists twelve gemstones representing the twelve tribes of Israel. These stones were believed to carry divine power and were used for guidance and protection.
In the medieval period, European traditions began to associate specific stones with the months of the year, often linking them with zodiac signs and planetary influences. These early systems were not standardized and varied significantly by region and era. By the 19th century, the practice had become more structured, influenced by both religious and commercial interests. The rise of the jewelry trade in the United States during the late 19th and early 20th centuries prompted the need for a more unified system.
In 1912, the National Association of Jewelers (now the Jewelers of America) convened to establish a standardized list of birthstones for each month. This initiative aimed to create a consistent framework that would facilitate marketing and consumer recognition. The chosen stones were selected based on their availability, affordability, and appeal to American consumers. The list included familiar gems such as diamond (April), emerald (May), ruby (July), and sapphire (September), while also incorporating stones like garnet (January) and amethyst (February) that had historical associations with their respective months.
The 1912 list was not static; it evolved in response to changing market conditions and consumer preferences. For example, in 1952, the Jewelry Industry Council of America updated the list by adding alexandrite to June, citrine to November, pink tourmaline to October, and zircon to December. These additions were motivated by the desire to include more colorful and versatile options that could be marketed effectively. More recently, in 2002, tanzanite was added to December’s stones, and in 2016, spinel was introduced as an August birthstone. These changes reflect the dynamic nature of the birthstone tradition and the ongoing influence of the jewelry industry.
Despite these modifications, the core of the modern birthstone system remains rooted in the 1912 list. The continued popularity of these gems is a testament to their enduring appeal and the cultural significance they hold for many people. Whether worn as personal adornment or given as gifts, birthstones continue to play a vital role in the jewelry world.
Geological Formation and Sources
Each gemstone on the modern American birthstone list is distinguished by its unique geological properties and sources. Understanding the formation and origin of these stones provides valuable insight into their rarity, availability, and characteristics.
Garnet (January)
Garnet is a group of silicate minerals that form in metamorphic and igneous rocks. The most common types associated with birthstone use are almandine and pyrope. Garnet is typically found in regions with high-pressure and high-temperature conditions, such as Brazil, India, and the United States. While garnet is not particularly rare, large, high-quality stones are relatively scarce. This gemstone is known for its vibrant red color, though it can also appear in shades of green, orange, and even purple.
Amethyst (February)
Amethyst is a variety of quartz and is formed in geodes and cavities within volcanic rocks. The purple coloration is due to the presence of iron and irradiation. Brazil is the largest source of amethyst, followed by Uruguay and Russia. Amethyst is relatively abundant and affordable, which contributed to its selection as February’s birthstone. It is known for its clarity and brilliance, making it a popular choice for jewelry.
Aquamarine (March)
Aquamarine is a beryl mineral that forms in granitic pegmatites. It is composed of beryllium aluminum silicate and is typically found in Brazil, Madagascar, and Nigeria. The blue-green color of aquamarine is caused by the presence of iron. This gemstone is relatively durable, with a hardness of 7.5–8 on the Mohs scale. Its availability and striking color have made it a favorite in jewelry.
Diamond (April)
Diamond is the hardest natural substance on Earth, with a hardness of 10 on the Mohs scale. It is formed under extreme pressure and temperature in the Earth’s mantle and is brought to the surface through volcanic eruptions. The most significant sources of diamonds are Russia, Botswana, and Canada. Diamonds are highly valued for their brilliance and durability, making them the quintessential April birthstone.
Emerald (May)
Emerald is a beryl mineral that contains chromium or vanadium, which gives it its green color. It is primarily found in Colombia, though deposits also exist in Zambia and Brazil. Emeralds are known for their rich color and inclusions, which are considered part of their character. Due to their rarity and beauty, emeralds are among the most valuable gemstones.
Alexandrite (June)
Alexandrite is a chrysoberyl mineral that exhibits a color change from green in daylight to red in incandescent light. It is extremely rare and is primarily found in Brazil and Sri Lanka. The discovery of alexandrite in the 19th century caused a sensation, and its unique properties have made it a highly sought-after gemstone. It was added to the June birthstone list in 1952.
Ruby (July)
Ruby is a red variety of corundum, composed of aluminum oxide with trace amounts of chromium. It is formed in metamorphic rocks and is found in Burma (Myanmar), Thailand, and Madagascar. Rubies are highly prized for their deep red color and brilliance. They are among the most valuable gemstones and have been symbols of power and passion throughout history.
Peridot (August)
Peridot is a silicate mineral that forms in volcanic rocks. It is typically found in Hawaii, Arizona, and Pakistan. The green color of peridot is due to the presence of iron. While peridot is relatively abundant, high-quality, large stones are rare. It was added to the August birthstone list in 1952 and again in 2016 with the addition of spinel.
Spinel (August)
Spinel is an oxide mineral that can be found in a wide range of colors. It is typically found in metamorphic and igneous rocks and is found in countries such as Vietnam, Myanmar, and Sri Lanka. Spinel is relatively durable, with a hardness of 8 on the Mohs scale. It was added to the August birthstone list in 2016 as an alternative to peridot.
Sapphire (September)
Sapphire is a blue variety of corundum, composed of aluminum oxide with trace amounts of iron and titanium. It is found in countries such as Burma (Myanmar), Thailand, and Australia. Sapphires are known for their deep blue color and durability. They have been symbols of wisdom and nobility throughout history.
Tourmaline (October)
Tourmaline is a complex borosilicate mineral that can be found in a wide range of colors. It is typically found in metamorphic and igneous rocks and is found in Brazil, Nigeria, and the United States. Tourmaline is relatively durable and is known for its vibrant colors.
Topaz (November)
Topaz is a silicate mineral that can be found in a wide range of colors. It is typically found in igneous and metamorphic rocks and is found in countries such as Brazil, Russia, and the United States. Topaz is relatively durable and is known for its clarity and brilliance.
Tanzanite (December)
Tanzanite is a rare zoisite mineral that was discovered in Tanzania in the 1960s. It is known for its striking blue-violet color and is highly valued for its rarity. Tanzanite was added to the December birthstone list in 2002.
Gemological Properties
The gemstones on the modern American birthstone list are characterized by a range of gemological properties, including color, clarity, hardness, and refractive index. These properties influence the gemstone’s suitability for jewelry and its market value.
| Gemstone | Color | Hardness (Mohs) | Chemical Composition | Refractive Index |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Garnet | Red, green, orange | 6.5–7.5 | Silicate minerals | 1.72–1.94 |
| Amethyst | Purple | 7 | Quartz | 1.54–1.55 |
| Aquamarine | Blue-green | 7.5–8 | Beryl | 1.57–1.58 |
| Diamond | Colorless to yellow, brown | 10 | Carbon | 2.417 |
| Emerald | Green | 7.5–8 | Beryl | 1.57–1.58 |
| Alexandrite | Green to red | 8.5 | Chrysoberyl | 1.74–1.76 |
| Ruby | Red | 9 | Corundum | 1.76–1.78 |
| Peridot | Green | 6.5–7 | Olivine | 1.65–1.69 |
| Spinel | All colors | 8 | Oxide mineral | 1.718 |
| Sapphire | Blue | 9 | Corundum | 1.76–1.78 |
| Tourmaline | Multicolored | 7–7.5 | Borosilicate | 1.62–1.64 |
| Topaz | Colorless, yellow, blue | 8 | Silicate | 1.62–1.64 |
| Tanzanite | Blue-violet | 6–7 | Zoisite | 1.694 |
These properties are essential in determining the gemstone’s use in jewelry. For example, diamonds and sapphires are highly durable and are often used in rings and other frequently worn pieces. In contrast, tanzanite and peridot are relatively softer and require more careful handling to avoid damage.
Symbolism and Metaphysical Beliefs
The symbolic meanings and metaphysical beliefs associated with birthstones have evolved over time, drawing from a combination of historical, religious, and cultural traditions. These beliefs have influenced the selection of gemstones for specific months and continue to shape their popularity and significance.
Garnet has long been associated with protection and vitality. In ancient Egypt, it was known as “the gem of the sun” and was believed to bring health and energy. In medieval Europe, garnet was thought to protect travelers and ensure safe journeys.
Amethyst is traditionally associated with clarity and sobriety. It was believed to protect against intoxication and promote mental clarity. In modern times, amethyst is often used in meditation and spiritual practices.
Aquamarine is linked to calmness and courage. It was believed to help sailors navigate the seas and was often carried as a protective talisman. In modern times, aquamarine is associated with communication and truth.
Diamond symbolizes strength, purity, and eternal love. It has been used in engagement rings for centuries and is a powerful symbol of commitment and devotion.
Emerald is associated with love, fertility, and rebirth. It has been a symbol of spring and renewal in many cultures. In ancient Rome, emeralds were believed to bring happiness and good fortune.
Alexandrite is linked to transformation and adaptability. Its color change is seen as a metaphor for personal growth and change. It is believed to enhance intuition and insight.
Ruby is a symbol of passion, power, and protection. It has been used in royal jewelry for centuries and is believed to bring strength and vitality to the wearer.
Peridot is associated with light and energy. In ancient Egypt, it was believed to bring warmth and protection against nightmares. In modern times, peridot is believed to promote optimism and positivity.
Spinel is a relatively new addition to the birthstone list, but it is believed to bring balance and harmony. It is often used in spiritual practices and is associated with emotional healing.
Sapphire is a symbol of wisdom and nobility. It has been used in royal crowns and regalia for centuries and is believed to bring protection and divine favor.
Tourmaline is associated with grounding and emotional balance. It is believed to help release negative emotions and promote emotional stability.
Topaz is linked to strength and protection. It was believed to bring courage and was often used in protective amulets. In modern times, topaz is associated with love and friendship.
Tanzanite is a symbol of transformation and spiritual awakening. Its rarity and unique color make it a powerful stone for personal growth and change.
Care and Cleaning
Proper care and cleaning are essential to maintaining the beauty and longevity of birthstone jewelry. The specific care instructions for each gemstone depend on its hardness, durability, and sensitivity to heat and chemicals.
Garnet should be cleaned with warm, soapy water and a soft brush. Avoid exposure to harsh chemicals and extreme temperatures.
Amethyst can be cleaned with warm, soapy water. It is sensitive to prolonged exposure to direct sunlight, which can cause fading.
Aquamarine should be cleaned with warm, soapy water. Avoid exposure to harsh chemicals and high heat.
Diamond is one of the hardest gemstones and can be cleaned with warm, soapy water and a soft brush. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are also safe for diamonds.
Emerald is sensitive to heat and chemicals. It should be cleaned with warm, soapy water and a soft brush. Avoid exposure to high heat and harsh chemicals.
Alexandrite is sensitive to heat and chemicals. It should be cleaned with warm, soapy water and a soft brush. Avoid exposure to high heat and harsh chemicals.
Ruby is highly durable and can be cleaned with warm, soapy water. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are also safe for rubies.
Peridot is relatively soft and should be cleaned with warm, soapy water. Avoid exposure to harsh chemicals and high heat.
Spinel is durable and can be cleaned with warm, soapy water. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are also safe for spinel.
Sapphire is highly durable and can be cleaned with warm, soapy water. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are also safe for sapphires.
Tourmaline is relatively durable and can be cleaned with warm, soapy water. Avoid exposure to harsh chemicals and high heat.
Topaz is durable and can be cleaned with warm, soapy water. Avoid exposure to harsh chemicals and high heat.
Tanzanite is relatively soft and should be cleaned with warm, soapy water. Avoid exposure to harsh chemicals and high heat.
Proper care and cleaning ensure that birthstone jewelry remains beautiful and valuable for generations.
Conclusion
The American birthstone system is a fascinating blend of history, gemology, and cultural tradition. Established in 1912 by the National Association of Jewelers and refined over the decades, this system has provided a framework for assigning gemstones to each month of the year. The selected stones are not only beautiful but also rich in symbolic meaning and historical significance. From the vibrant red of garnet to the deep blue of sapphire, each birthstone carries a unique story and set of properties that make it valuable in both jewelry and personal expression.
The evolution of the birthstone list reflects the dynamic nature of the jewelry industry and the changing tastes of consumers. While the core of the list remains rooted in the 1912 standardization, the addition of new stones such as alexandrite, tanzanite, and spinel has kept the tradition relevant and appealing. The continued popularity of birthstone jewelry is a testament to the enduring appeal of these gems and their role in personal and cultural identity.
Whether chosen for their beauty, symbolism, or historical significance, birthstones remain a meaningful and cherished part of the jewelry world. Their journey from ancient traditions to modern marketplaces highlights the intersection of art, science, and culture, making them a fascinating subject for gemologists, jewelry lovers, and history enthusiasts alike.