The association of gemstones with specific months of the year, known as birthstones, has captivated human imagination for centuries. These gemstones are not only cherished for their beauty and value but also for the historical, cultural, and symbolic significance they carry. Yet, the question of who decided which gemstone belongs to which month remains a fascinating topic for gemologists, historians, and jewelry enthusiasts alike.
The modern birthstone list is the result of a complex interplay of ancient religious traditions, cultural beliefs, and commercial interests. The earliest roots of this practice can be traced back to biblical times, particularly to the Breastplate of Aaron described in the Book of Exodus. Over time, these symbolic associations evolved from representing the tribes of Israel to aligning with zodiac signs and eventually to being linked with the calendar months.
This article delves into the historical and cultural origins of birthstone assignments, tracing how and why these associations came to be standardized. We will explore the ancient texts that first connected gemstones with symbolic meanings, examine the role of key figures such as Flavius Josephus and George Frederick Kunz, and analyze how national jewelers' associations formalized the modern list. Finally, we will consider the variations in birthstone lists across different countries and the ongoing evolution of the tradition.
Ancient Roots of Birthstone Traditions
The concept of gemstones being associated with symbolic or spiritual significance dates back thousands of years. One of the earliest and most influential references to birthstone-like associations is found in the Book of Exodus, part of the Hebrew Bible. In this text, the high priest Aaron is described as wearing a breastplate adorned with twelve gemstones, each representing one of the twelve tribes of Israel. According to Exodus 28:15–30, this breastplate was not just a piece of ceremonial attire but a sacred object used in divine judgment and communication.
The exact identities of these twelve stones have been the subject of much debate and speculation among scholars. Some early translations of the text suggest that the stones included sardius (carnelian), topaz, carbuncle (likely garnet), emerald, sapphire, diamond, ligure (possibly jacinth), agate, amethyst, beryl, onyx, and jasper. These stones were arranged in four rows of three and were believed to serve as a conduit for divine wisdom and guidance.
While the Breastplate of Aaron was not explicitly tied to the months of the year or individual birth months in the biblical text, it laid the groundwork for future symbolic associations. The idea that gemstones could carry specific meanings, powers, and connections to people or events became more prominent in the centuries that followed.
The Influence of Flavius Josephus and the Zodiac
A key figure in the transition from the symbolic use of gemstones to the zodiacal and calendrical associations is the 1st-century Roman-Jewish historian Flavius Josephus. In his work Antiquities of the Jews, Josephus made a significant connection between the twelve stones of the Breastplate of Aaron and the twelve signs of the zodiac. He proposed that each stone was not only tied to a tribe of Israel but also to a zodiacal sign and, by extension, to a month of the year.
This zodiacal association marked a turning point in the evolution of birthstone traditions. It introduced the idea that gemstones could be linked to specific astrological influences, suggesting that they could offer protective, therapeutic, or talismanic benefits depending on the time of year or the sign under which one was born. This concept gradually shifted the focus from tribal or religious associations to individualized symbolic meanings.
By the 5th century, scholars like St. Jerome further elaborated on these connections, reinforcing the idea that gemstones were not only sacred objects but also celestial symbols. This zodiacal framework laid the foundation for the eventual development of birthstones tied to the calendar months, rather than to tribes or signs alone.
Medieval Practices and the Custom of Wearing One Stone Per Month
By the Middle Ages, the practice of wearing all twelve gemstones and changing the stone each month became widespread in Europe. This custom reflected the belief that each stone carried distinct energies and properties that were best harnessed when worn during its corresponding month. The idea was that by rotating through the stones, one could benefit from their combined protective and therapeutic effects.
However, it wasn’t until the 16th and 17th centuries that the practice of wearing a single gemstone representing one’s birth month began to take shape. This shift is particularly noted in Poland and Germany, where people started to favor a more personal and permanent connection to a single stone. This marked the beginning of the modern birthstone tradition as we understand it today.
George Frederick Kunz and the Revival of Birthstones
The modern revival of interest in birthstones is largely attributed to George Frederick Kunz, an influential gemologist and writer who is often credited as America’s first gemologist. Kunz was a self-taught expert in gemology and worked for Tiffany & Co., where he played a crucial role in promoting the aesthetic and symbolic value of gemstones.
In 1891, Kunz authored a 36-page booklet titled Natal Stones: Sentiments and Superstitions Connected with Precious Stones. This work compiled and formalized the traditional beliefs surrounding gemstones, including their zodiacal and calendrical associations. The booklet was instrumental in bringing these ideas into the public consciousness, especially in the United States.
Kunz’s work not only revived interest in birthstones but also had a direct impact on Tiffany & Co.’s sales, as the booklet encouraged customers to seek out and purchase jewelry featuring their natal stones. This commercial success demonstrated the growing appeal of the tradition and laid the groundwork for its standardization.
The Standardization of the Birthstone List
The formal standardization of the modern birthstone list in the United States was a key step in the evolution of this tradition. In 1906, the National Association of Jewelers (now known as Jewelers of America) replaced the archaic term “natal stone” with the more accessible “birthstone.” This shift reflected a broader effort to modernize and promote the concept in a way that was both appealing and marketable.
The 1912 standardization marked a significant turning point. The association updated the birthstone list to include four of the most popular precious gemstones—diamond, ruby, emerald, and sapphire, replacing several of the traditional stones. These changes were not only driven by aesthetic preferences but also by practical considerations, as jewelers wanted to promote gemstones that were more readily available and desirable to the public.
In 1952, the Jewelry Industry Council of America further refined the list by adding alexandrite to June, citrine to November, pink tourmaline to October, and zircon to December. These additions expanded the range of gemstones available and reflected the changing tastes and availability of materials.
The most recent notable change occurred in 2002, when tanzanite was added to the list of December birthstones. In 2016, spinel was added as a birthstone for August, reflecting the ongoing evolution of the tradition and the introduction of new gemstones into the market.
George Frederick Kunz, despite his foundational role in promoting birthstone traditions, was not entirely in favor of these changes. In his 1913 book The Curious Lore of Precious Stones, he expressed concerns about the sudden appearance of transparent, faceted precious gems as birthstones, as well as the reordering of stones like ruby and turquoise. Nevertheless, these changes were embraced by the industry and have largely remained in place since their introduction.
Cultural Variations in Birthstone Assignments
It is important to note that the modern birthstone list is not universal. Different countries and cultures have developed their own versions of birthstone assignments, reflecting their unique histories and gemological traditions.
For example, in Great Britain, the National Association of Goldsmiths established its own birthstone list in the 1930s, which is still in use today. This list differs from the American standard in several ways, including the assignment of certain stones to different months. These variations highlight the cultural and commercial influences that have shaped the evolution of birthstone traditions around the world.
In ancient India, gemstones were also associated with celestial forces and were believed to influence human destiny. The 5th-century text Ratna Pariksha described the Nine Gems (Navaratna), each linked to a specific planet and believed to provide protection and prosperity. While this system is distinct from the Western birthstone tradition, it reflects the universal human fascination with the symbolic and mystical properties of gemstones.
The Role of Commercialization in Birthstone Evolution
The development and standardization of birthstone lists were not solely driven by historical or cultural factors. The jewelry industry played a crucial role in shaping and promoting these associations, particularly in the 20th century.
The 1912 standardization was not just an academic exercise but a commercial strategy aimed at increasing the appeal and demand for gemstone jewelry. By aligning gemstones with specific months and giving them symbolic meanings, jewelers could create new marketing opportunities and encourage consumers to purchase gemstone jewelry as a personal and meaningful accessory.
This commercialization was further reinforced by the addition of new gemstones to the list, such as tanzanite and spinel, which were relatively new to the market and needed to be promoted. These additions reflected the changing dynamics of the gemstone industry, including the discovery of new gem materials and the development of new cutting and treatment techniques.
While some critics argue that the commercialization of birthstones has diluted their traditional and symbolic significance, others view it as a natural evolution of the practice. The fact that birthstones remain popular today suggests that they have retained their cultural and emotional value, even as they have been adapted for modern markets.
The Symbolism and Metaphysical Beliefs of Birthstones
Throughout history, gemstones have been believed to possess metaphysical properties, offering protection, healing, and spiritual benefits. These beliefs have played a key role in the development of birthstone traditions and continue to influence modern perceptions of these stones.
In ancient times, people believed that wearing the correct gemstone at the right time could ward off evil spirits, enhance personal energy, and bring good fortune. These beliefs were often tied to zodiacal or calendrical associations, with each gemstone being linked to a specific time of year and its corresponding energies.
For example, ruby, long associated with passion and vitality, was believed to bring courage and strength to those who wore it. Emerald, linked to fertility and renewal, was thought to promote love and emotional well-being. Sapphire, with its cool blue color, was believed to bring wisdom and clarity of thought.
These symbolic associations have persisted into the modern era, with many people choosing to wear their birthstone as a form of protection or personal empowerment. While the scientific community does not support these metaphysical claims, the cultural and emotional significance of birthstones remains strong, particularly in spiritual and holistic practices.
The Ongoing Evolution of Birthstone Traditions
Despite the formalization of the modern birthstone list in the early 20th century, the tradition continues to evolve and adapt to changing times. New gemstones are occasionally added to the list, and some traditional stones are being reconsidered or replaced due to availability, ethical concerns, or changing consumer preferences.
One of the most notable additions in recent years was tanzanite, discovered in 1967 in Tanzania and officially added to the December birthstone list in 2002. This addition was a marketing success, as tanzanite’s vibrant blue-violet color and relative rarity made it an attractive and marketable option for consumers.
Similarly, the addition of spinel to August in 2016 reflected the growing appreciation for this gemstone, which has long been mistaken for ruby and sapphire due to its similar appearance and color. The decision to add spinel was based on its aesthetic qualities and historical significance, as well as its growing popularity in the jewelry industry.
These ongoing changes highlight the dynamic nature of birthstone traditions, which are not fixed or unchanging but are instead shaped by cultural, commercial, and scientific developments. As new gemstones are discovered and old ones are re-evaluated, the birthstone list will continue to reflect the evolving relationship between humans and gemstones.
Conclusion
The assignment of gemstones to specific months as birthstones is a tradition that has its roots in ancient religious and cultural practices, particularly in the Hebrew Bible and the writings of Flavius Josephus. Over time, these symbolic associations evolved from representing the twelve tribes of Israel to aligning with the zodiac and the calendar months. The standardization of the modern birthstone list in the early 20th century was driven by both cultural and commercial interests, with national jewelers' associations playing a key role in formalizing and promoting the tradition.
While the 1912 list established by the National Association of Jewelers remains the most widely recognized in the United States, other countries and cultures have developed their own versions of birthstone assignments, reflecting their unique histories and traditions. The addition of new gemstones, such as tanzanite and spinel, has further demonstrated the flexibility and adaptability of the tradition.
Today, birthstones continue to hold cultural, symbolic, and commercial significance, appealing to jewelry buyers, gemstone enthusiasts, and those who believe in the metaphysical properties of gemstones. Whether worn for personal meaning, protection, or aesthetic appeal, birthstones remain a fascinating and enduring part of human history.