Antique owl rings, spanning centuries of craftsmanship, frequently feature gemstones, with garnet and emerald appearing prominently alongside diamonds, sapphires, and pearls. These rings are not solely defined by their avian motif but also by the inherent symbolism and properties of the stones they showcase. While not explicitly tied to a single modern birthstone, the gemstones commonly found within these rings – particularly emerald and garnet – correlate with May and January birthstones, respectively. This article will explore the history, materials, and gemstone associations found within antique owl rings, drawing exclusively from available sources.
A History Rooted in Symbolism
The owl has held significant symbolic weight across numerous cultures throughout history. While the provided sources do not detail the origins of this symbolism, they demonstrate the enduring appeal of the owl motif in jewelry, particularly rings. Antique owl rings appear as early as the 15th century, with examples originating from Greek and European classical traditions. These early pieces often utilized gold and silver, sometimes incorporating stones like lapis lazuli.
The Victorian era (late 19th century) witnessed a resurgence in owl-themed jewelry, often featuring garnet eyes, as exemplified by an 18k yellow gold garnet owl ring. The Edwardian and Art Nouveau periods (early 20th century) continued this trend, incorporating diamonds, pearls, and other gemstones into increasingly elaborate designs. French craftsmanship during the Belle Époque and Napoleon III periods is particularly well-represented, with rings featuring diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires. The Art Deco period (1920s) saw a shift towards geometric designs, often utilizing diamonds and sapphires in platinum settings.
The sources indicate a consistent demand for these rings across different eras, with examples from various countries including Greece, France, Italy, Austria, and the Czech Republic. The presence of artisan borrowers from Bali and Java suggests a continuation of owl-themed jewelry production, though the sources do not detail the specific styles or gemstones used in these more recent creations.
Gemstone Choices and Their Significance
The gemstones incorporated into antique owl rings vary considerably depending on the era and the jeweler’s preference. However, certain stones appear repeatedly.
Garnet: Frequently used for the owl’s eyes, garnet is prominently featured in Victorian-era rings. One example details a men’s antique Victorian ring with two cabochon garnets weighing .36 carats. Garnet’s deep burgundy hue provided a striking contrast against the yellow gold settings common during this period.
Emerald: Emeralds appear in both Belle Époque and Art Nouveau rings, often alongside diamonds. The sources mention emeralds in 18k gold settings, suggesting a preference for this gemstone in more elaborate designs.
Diamond: Diamonds are ubiquitous throughout the history of owl rings, appearing in various cuts and settings across multiple periods, including Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco. They were often paired with other gemstones like sapphires, pearls, and emeralds.
Sapphire: Sapphires, both blue and potentially other colors (indicated by “Green Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire”), are frequently found in rings from the Napoleon III, Edwardian, and Art Deco periods. They were often used alongside diamonds and pearls.
Pearl: Pearls, both natural and cultured, were popular choices for owl rings, particularly during the Victorian and Art Nouveau eras. They were often combined with diamonds and other gemstones.
Opal: Opal is noted in Belle Époque rings, often paired with diamonds and set in gold or platinum.
Other Gemstones: The sources also mention the use of ruby, jade, aquamarine, and even glass in certain owl ring designs, demonstrating the diverse range of materials employed by jewelers.
A summary of gemstone occurrences by era is presented below:
| Era | Gemstones Commonly Used |
|---|---|
| 15th Century & Earlier | Lapis Lazuli, Gold |
| Victorian | Garnet, Diamond |
| Belle Époque | Emerald, Diamond, Opal |
| Art Nouveau | Pearl, Diamond, Emerald |
| Edwardian | Diamond, Sapphire |
| Art Deco | Diamond, Sapphire |
Materials and Craftsmanship
The materials used in antique owl rings reflect the prevailing styles and technologies of each era. Gold, in various karats (10k, 14k, 18k, 22k), is the most common metal. Platinum also appears, particularly in Art Deco and Edwardian designs. Silver is noted in earlier examples.
Craftsmanship varied significantly. Victorian rings often feature intricate engraving, particularly around the owl’s face and along the shank. Art Nouveau rings showcase flowing, organic designs, while Art Deco rings emphasize geometric patterns. The sources highlight the skill of French jewelers during the Napoleon III, Belle Époque, and Art Deco periods, known for their meticulous attention to detail and use of high-quality gemstones.
Owl Rings and the Birthstone Connection
While antique owl rings were not specifically designed as birthstone jewelry, the gemstones frequently used within them align with established birthstone traditions. Emerald, a common feature in these rings, is the recognized birthstone for May. Garnet, often used for the owl’s eyes, is the birthstone for January. The inclusion of diamonds, sapphires, and pearls further broadens the potential birthstone associations.
The sources also mention Balinese and Javanese rings, suggesting a contemporary continuation of owl-themed jewelry production. However, the specific gemstones used in these rings are not detailed.
Care and Considerations
The sources do not provide specific care instructions for antique owl rings. However, based on the gemstones commonly used, general guidelines can be inferred. Diamonds are relatively durable and can be cleaned with warm soapy water and a soft brush. Emeralds are more delicate and require gentle cleaning to avoid damage. Garnets, sapphires, and pearls also require careful handling. Given the age and potential fragility of these rings, professional cleaning and inspection are recommended.
Conclusion
Antique owl rings represent a fascinating intersection of symbolism, craftsmanship, and gemstone artistry. From the ancient Greeks to the Art Deco era, the owl motif has captivated jewelers and collectors alike. The gemstones incorporated into these rings – garnet, emerald, diamond, sapphire, and pearl – not only enhance their aesthetic appeal but also connect them to broader cultural traditions and birthstone lore. While not explicitly marketed as birthstone jewelry, the presence of May and January birthstones within these rings adds another layer of significance for those born in those months. The enduring popularity of antique owl rings testifies to the timeless appeal of both the owl symbol and the beauty of the gemstones they showcase.