The ruby, a gemstone celebrated for its vibrant red hue, holds a prominent place in the world of colored stones and is traditionally recognized as the birthstone for July. However, historical context reveals a fascinating interplay with another gem, the spinel, particularly during the Middle Ages. This article will explore the history, origins, and significance of the ruby – and its frequent historical substitute, the spinel – as featured in antique jewelry, tracing its journey from ancient symbolism to its modern association with a specific birth month.
A History Rooted in Antiquity and Medieval Europe
The use of gemstones to represent tribes of Israel dates back to biblical times, with Aaron’s breastplate featuring twelve unique gems symbolizing each tribe. While these early associations did not correlate to birth months, they established a precedent for assigning symbolic meaning to gemstones. Later, in the 1st century AD, a connection between gemstones and astrological signs emerged, with certain stones believed to correspond to specific periods of the year and zodiac signs. This practice gained popularity, but faced challenges during the Middle Ages.
The period between the 5th and 15th centuries, known as the Middle Ages, witnessed the dominance of Christianity in Europe. Practices like astrology were often viewed as conflicting with Christian beliefs, leading to the suppression of associated traditions. Consequently, the popularity of gemstones linked to zodiac signs waned as those practicing astrology concealed their activities. Despite this suppression, gemstones continued to be valued for their beauty and perceived powers, finding expression in religious and secular art.
A tangible example of this period is found in a brooch crafted around 1350, originating from Western Europe. This square-shaped brooch, constructed from high-carat yellow gold, featured a central stone – either a ruby or a spinel – and was adorned with pearls, though some settings and pearls are now lost. Such pieces represent a rare fragment of history, showcasing the craftsmanship and materials valued during the medieval era. The brooch’s survival, even in imperfect condition, speaks to the enduring appeal of these early jewels.
Distinguishing Ruby from Spinel: A Historical Challenge
During the Middle Ages, accurately identifying gemstones presented a significant challenge. Gemological science was not yet developed, and the distinction between ruby and spinel was often blurred. Both stones can exhibit a range of red hues, leading to frequent misidentification. The brooch described above exemplifies this, as the central stone is noted as being either a ruby or a spinel. This ambiguity was common, and spinel was often used as a substitute for the more expensive and rarer ruby.
The Revival and Modern Association with Birth Months
The end of the Middle Ages brought a gradual shift in societal attitudes. As religious constraints eased, astrological practices resurfaced, and the association of gemstones with zodiac signs experienced a revival. However, the transition to associating gemstones with specific months rather than zodiac signs was a more gradual process. This change began to take shape in the 18th century in Poland, marking a pivotal moment in the evolution of the birthstone tradition. The birthstone list as we know it today was solidified over the subsequent centuries.
Victorian Era Jewelry and Novelty Designs
The 19th century, particularly the Victorian era (roughly 1837-1901), saw a flourishing of jewelry design. Brooches and necklaces were popular forms, often inspired by ancient civilizations like Greece, Egypt, and Etruria. Motifs such as urns, amphorae, masks, and enamel work were common. The Léontine chain, a woven gold ribbon necklace with a tassel and watch hook, was a fashionable accessory.
Brooches of the 1860s were frequently round, featuring a central cabochon or enameled dome. They were often designed to be worn both horizontally and vertically, functioning as either brooches or pendants. Techniques like corded wire, granulation, and the use of mosaics, cameos, and intaglios were employed to create intricate designs. Celtic and Scottish pebble brooches also remained popular.
Novelty jewelry, depicting everyday objects like flowers, windmills, and lanterns, gained traction during this period. Sporting jewelry, featuring motifs related to horse racing, hunting, and other leisure activities, was particularly embraced. The popularity of horseshoe brooches, reportedly sparked by Napoleon III’s purchase in England, exemplifies this trend. Reverse crystal intaglios, carved and painted on the back of rock crystal cabochons, were another fashionable element, often depicting whimsical scenes.
Gemological Characteristics (Limited by Sources)
The provided sources offer limited specific gemological data. However, it is stated that ruby and spinel are both “precious stones” and can exhibit red coloration. The brooch from around 1350 was crafted in high-carat gold, indicating the value placed on both the metal and the gemstone. Further details regarding hardness, refractive index, or chemical composition are not provided within these sources.
Symbolism and Metaphysical Beliefs (Limited by Sources)
The sources do not explicitly detail the symbolism or metaphysical beliefs associated with rubies or spinels. However, the historical association with the tribes of Israel and the zodiac suggests that these stones were believed to possess symbolic power and influence. The fact that they were worn as jewelry indicates a desire to benefit from their perceived properties.
Care and Cleaning (Not Addressed in Sources)
The provided sources do not offer any guidance on the care and cleaning of rubies or spinels.
Conclusion
The story of the ruby – and its historical companion, the spinel – is a journey through time, reflecting changing cultural beliefs and evolving gemological understanding. From its early association with the tribes of Israel and astrological signs to its eventual designation as the birthstone for July, the ruby has held a consistent place in human fascination. The medieval brooch serves as a tangible link to the past, reminding us of a time when the distinction between ruby and spinel was less clear, and both stones were valued for their beauty and perceived power. The Victorian era further cemented the ruby’s place in jewelry design, showcasing its versatility and enduring appeal. While the provided sources offer a glimpse into this rich history, further research is needed to fully understand the gemological properties, symbolism, and care requirements of these captivating gemstones.