July’s birthstone, the ruby, holds a prominent place in the world of gemstones, celebrated for its vibrant color and rich history. While the tradition of birthstones dates back centuries, the standardization of these assignments is a relatively modern development. The ruby’s association with July, however, is firmly established, and a particularly striking example of its allure is embodied in the Burmese Ruby Bracelet, a centerpiece of the Smithsonian’s Gem Gallery. This article will explore the history, geological origins, gemological properties, and cultural significance of the ruby, drawing primarily from accounts surrounding this notable piece and broader historical context.
History and Lore
The concept of attributing specific gemstones to each month evolved over time. Early traditions varied across cultures, with different stones linked to astrological signs or planetary influences. The standardization of birthstones as we know them today began in 1912 with the American National Retail Jewelers Association (now Jewelers of America), aiming to create a unified system for the jewelry trade. This list has been updated periodically, but its foundation remains rooted in ancient beliefs and symbolism.
Rubies, in particular, have a long and storied past. Since the late 15th century, Burma (now Myanmar), specifically the Mogok region, has been renowned as a crucial source of high-quality rubies. Mogok, a city over 800 years old, and the surrounding villages have been famed for their gemstones, especially rubies and sapphires. This mountainous area, known as the “Valley of Rubies,” is considered the original source of “pigeon’s blood” rubies, alongside the world’s finest royal blue sapphires.
A significant moment in the modern history of rubies occurred in 1961 when the Smithsonian Institution received an extraordinary ruby and diamond bracelet from an anonymous donor. This bracelet, now known as The Burmese Ruby Bracelet, quickly became a star attraction at the National Museum of Natural History. The bracelet’s prominence highlights the enduring appeal of rubies and their continued relevance in the world of gemology and jewelry.
Geological Formation and Sources
The rubies featured in the Burmese Ruby Bracelet originate from the Mogok region of Burma (Myanmar). This region is particularly celebrated for producing rubies with a distinctive “pigeon’s blood” color, a highly prized hue in the gem world. The formation of rubies is a complex geological process, typically occurring in metamorphic rocks. Rubies are a variety of the mineral corundum (aluminum oxide), and their red color is due to the presence of chromium.
The Mogok region’s unique geological conditions contribute to the exceptional quality of its rubies. The area’s mountainous terrain and specific metamorphic processes create an environment conducive to ruby formation. The rubies are often found in alluvial deposits, having been eroded from their original host rocks and carried by rivers and streams.
Gemological Properties
The Burmese Ruby Bracelet contains 31 pigeon’s blood rubies, totaling 60 carats. These rubies exhibit a slightly purplish-red color that is medium-dark in tone and enhanced by a red fluorescence. The original cuts of the rubies were retained when they were reset in platinum by Harry Winston, Inc., in 1950. The bracelet also features 107 pear, marquise, and round brilliant cut diamonds totaling 27 carats, set in a three-row design.
While a comprehensive gemological profile requires data beyond the provided sources, the description of the rubies’ color and fluorescence provides insight into their quality. Pigeon’s blood rubies are characterized by their intense, pure red hue with a hint of blue, and their strong fluorescence enhances their brilliance. The platinum setting further accentuates the rubies’ color and sparkle.
| Property | Description (Based on Sources) |
|---|---|
| Gemstone | Ruby |
| Color | Slightly purplish-red, medium-dark |
| Fluorescence | Red |
| Carat Weight (Rubies) | 60 carats |
| Number of Rubies | 31 |
| Setting | Platinum |
| Diamond Carat Weight | 27 carats |
| Diamond Count | 107 |
Symbolism and Metaphysical Beliefs
The provided sources do not detail extensive historical symbolism associated specifically with rubies. However, they do touch upon the broader significance of birthstones as reflections of identity, intention, and story. Each stone is believed to carry unique metaphysical properties and historical significance, serving as a tangible connection to one’s birth month and personal journey.
Other birthstones mentioned in the sources have associated meanings. Amethyst, the February birthstone, is linked to clear-headedness, calmness, peace, and enlightenment, stemming from Greek legends associating it with Bacchus, the god of wine. Opal, the October birthstone, has been historically associated with good fortune, good health, and foresight, with the Romans ranking it second only to emeralds. Emeralds, the May birthstone, symbolize hope, prosperity, and serenity. These examples demonstrate the rich tapestry of meaning woven into the tradition of birthstones.
Historical Context in Jewelry and Gemstone Exhibitions
The mid-20th century saw significant developments in the world of gemstone exhibitions and jewelry design. From 1949 to 1953, Harry Winston, known as “The King of Diamonds,” organized “The Court of Jewels,” a cross-country tour showcasing museum-quality historical gems, including the Hope, Jonker, and Golconda diamonds. This exhibition brought the world of high jewelry to a wider audience and solidified Winston’s reputation as a leading figure in the industry.
The 1970s brought a shift towards more minimalist jewelry designs. Tiffany & Co., responding to changing tastes, introduced designers like Elsa Peretti, who created simplified diamond jewelry, exemplified by the “Diamonds by the Yard” collection. This demonstrates the evolving trends in jewelry design and the enduring appeal of diamonds and other precious gemstones.
Care and Cleaning
The sources do not provide specific care instructions for rubies. However, given that the rubies in the Burmese Ruby Bracelet are set in platinum, general guidelines for caring for these materials can be inferred. Platinum is a durable metal, but it can scratch over time. Regular cleaning with mild soap and water is recommended to maintain its luster. Rubies, being a relatively hard gemstone, can be cleaned similarly. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners, as these can damage both the ruby and the platinum setting. Professional cleaning and inspection by a jeweler are recommended periodically to ensure the longevity of the piece.
Conclusion
The Burmese Ruby Bracelet, a stunning example of ruby jewelry, embodies the enduring allure of this July birthstone. From its origins in the Mogok region of Burma to its prominent display at the Smithsonian, the bracelet represents a confluence of geological wonder, artistic craftsmanship, and historical significance. The standardization of birthstones in the early 20th century further cemented the ruby’s association with July, connecting it to themes of passion, vitality, and protection. While the provided sources offer a focused glimpse into the ruby’s story, they underscore its lasting legacy as a treasured gemstone and a symbol of enduring beauty.