Louis Comfort Tiffany, son of Charles Lewis Tiffany, founder of the renowned jewelry company, established a significant legacy extending beyond his celebrated stained glass work into the realm of gemstone jewelry. While known for his innovative designs and use of enamel, Tiffany’s fascination with gemstones, particularly opals and tourmalines, cemented his place in the history of both jewelry and gemology. This article explores Tiffany’s contributions to the world of gemstones, focusing on his preferences, notable creations, and the company’s continued pursuit of exceptional stones.
A Naturalistic Approach to Jewelry Design
Louis Tiffany’s entry into jewelry design followed the passing of his father in 1902. His designs, first exhibited at the 1904 Louisiana Purchase Exposition in St. Louis, quickly garnered acclaim for their naturalistic aesthetic. Tiffany’s jewelry was not merely ornamentation; it was elevated to the status of art through meticulous handcraftsmanship and the innovative use of semiprecious stones combined with enamel work. He sought to capture the beauty of the natural world in his pieces, a characteristic that defined his style.
Tiffany frequently collaborated with George Frederick Kunz, the gem expert at Tiffany & Company. Kunz’s expertise was instrumental in sourcing unusual and high-quality gems and semi-precious stones from around the globe for Tiffany’s designs. This partnership allowed Tiffany to work with a diverse palette of materials, pushing the boundaries of contemporary jewelry design.
The Allure of the Opal and Demantoid Garnet
Tiffany was particularly drawn to opals, utilizing them extensively in his creations. A prime example of his work is a black opal necklace donated to the Smithsonian in 1974. This unique piece, purchased from Tiffany’s on New Year’s Eve 1929, showcases a 30-inch length featuring two black opals – a larger central stone and a smaller accent opal – set within a vine of 18-karat gold grape leaves. The design is further enhanced by brilliant-cut green demantoid garnets, adding a contrasting sparkle and color. This necklace exemplifies Tiffany’s artistic vision and his skill in combining different gemstones to create a harmonious and visually striking piece. The necklace is currently part of the National Gem Collection at the National Museum of Natural History in Washington, DC, and serves as an excellent example of one of October’s official birthstones, the other being tourmaline.
Expanding the Gemstone Palette: Tourmaline, Tanzanite, and Tsavorite
Tiffany & Co.’s commitment to exceptional gemstones extends beyond opals. The company has a long tradition of introducing collectors’ gemstones, including cuprian elbaite tourmalines, Padparadscha sapphires, vivid demantoid garnets, and alexandrites. These stones are prized for their color, rarity, and beauty, representing the pinnacle of gemstone quality available at Tiffany & Co.
The company’s legacy also includes the discovery and popularization of tanzanite and tsavorite. In 1968, Tiffany introduced tanzanite, a gemstone known for its rich blue hue, and named it after its origin in Tanzania, near Mount Kilimanjaro. Similarly, in 1974, Henry B. Platt, then President of Tiffany, discovered tsavorite at the Kenya-Tanzania border near Tsavo National Park and bestowed upon it the name tsavorite. These discoveries demonstrate Tiffany & Co.’s proactive role in sourcing and bringing new and remarkable gemstones to the market.
The Enduring Quality of Rubies, Emeralds, and Sapphires
For centuries, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires have been considered the most extraordinary gemstones. Tiffany & Co.’s collection of these stones is renowned for its quality. The company’s master jewelers employ time-honored techniques and innovative design to bring these rare and highly coveted gems to life. Finding a single gemstone that meets Tiffany’s exacting standards is a challenge, let alone a matching suite, highlighting the company’s dedication to sourcing only the finest materials.
Tiffany’s Sterling Silver Creations
While primarily known for its gemstone work, Tiffany & Co. also produced pieces in other materials, such as sterling silver. An example is an Estate Tiffany & Co. Sterling Silver "X" Necklace, though currently out of stock. This demonstrates the breadth of Tiffany’s design capabilities and its commitment to offering a diverse range of jewelry options.
Conclusion
Louis Comfort Tiffany and Tiffany & Co. have left an indelible mark on the world of gemstones. From his naturalistic designs incorporating opals and demantoid garnets to the company’s discovery of tanzanite and tsavorite, Tiffany’s legacy is one of artistry, innovation, and a relentless pursuit of exceptional quality. The company’s continued dedication to sourcing and showcasing rare and beautiful gemstones ensures that the Tiffany tradition of excellence will endure for generations to come.