The concept of associating specific gemstones with months of the year, known as birthstones, boasts a rich and evolving history. While the modern understanding of birthstones is relatively recent, its roots extend back centuries, intertwined with astrological beliefs, folklore, and the burgeoning jewelry trade. The year 2019 saw a continued refinement of birthstone lists, offering consumers a wider range of choices while acknowledging both traditional and contemporary preferences. This article will explore the history of birthstones, focusing on the gems associated with November and December, particularly garnet and topaz, and the broader context of how these lists have changed over time.
A History of Association
The practice of linking gemstones to specific months did not emerge fully formed. Early associations were often based on astrological signs rather than calendar months. By the Middle Ages, the tradition of wearing a gemstone corresponding to one’s birth month gained traction, though the specific stones varied considerably. The standardization of birthstone lists is a relatively modern phenomenon, beginning to take shape in the 18th century. A pivotal moment arrived in 1912 when the American National Retail Jewelers Association (now Jewelers of America) officially codified a list of birthstones, a move that significantly influenced Western culture’s perception of these gems.
However, this standardization was not the end of the story. The list has continued to evolve, reflecting cultural shifts, the discovery of new gemstones, and the desires of both jewelers and consumers. In 2002, for example, tanzanite was added as a December birthstone, demonstrating the ongoing nature of this tradition. The existence of both “traditional” and “modern” lists highlights this dynamic process, allowing individuals to choose stones that resonate with them personally.
Traditional and Modern Lists: A Comparative Overview
The traditional birthstone lists often originated in Poland between the 16th and 18th centuries. These lists frequently included a wider variety of gemstones for each month, sometimes encompassing organic materials like pearls. The modern lists, developed largely by the jewelry industry, tended to favor transparent gems, likely to facilitate the creation of aesthetically pleasing jewelry, particularly “mother’s rings” featuring the birthstones of a woman’s children.
The differences between these lists are evident when examining the stones associated with specific months. For January, both the traditional and modern lists consistently feature garnet. February is consistently associated with amethyst across all lists. However, variations emerge for other months, with multiple options available in the U.S. (2019) and UK (2013) lists, showcasing the increasing flexibility in birthstone selection.
Garnet: Symbolism and Significance
Garnet, consistently recognized as the birthstone for January, carries a rich symbolism rooted in history and lore. Representing chastity, friendship, and loyalty, garnet has been treasured for its deep, rich hues, which can range from the classic deep red to shades of green, orange, and even colorless.
Historically, garnet was valued for its protective qualities. It was believed to safeguard travelers and ward off nightmares. The name “garnet” itself is derived from the Latin word granatus, meaning “seed-like,” a reference to the gem’s resemblance to pomegranate seeds. Garnets have been found in archaeological sites dating back to the Bronze Age, demonstrating their long-standing appeal.
Topaz: A Gem of Diverse Colors and Meanings
Topaz, prominently featured as a November birthstone, also boasts a fascinating history and a range of symbolic meanings. Traditionally, November was associated with both topaz and pearl. The modern lists, however, typically highlight topaz alongside citrine.
Topaz is known for its impressive range of colors, including yellow, brown, blue, pink, and red. Imperial topaz, with its vibrant orange-red hue, is particularly prized. Historically, topaz was believed to possess healing properties and was used to treat ailments such as asthma and insomnia. In some cultures, topaz was associated with strength and intelligence.
The Evolution of December Birthstones
December presents a particularly interesting case study in the evolution of birthstone lists. Traditionally, bloodstone and ruby were associated with this month. However, the modern lists have expanded to include turquoise, lapis lazuli, tanzanite, zircon, and even alexandrite. The addition of tanzanite in 2002 exemplifies the ongoing process of updating the birthstone chart to reflect new discoveries and consumer preferences. Turquoise, with its vibrant blue-green color, has maintained its popularity due to its relative affordability and cultural significance.
Regional Variations and Consumer Choice
Birthstone preferences can vary significantly across different regions. While the U.S. and UK lists share many similarities, subtle differences exist. Furthermore, consumer choice plays a crucial role in shaping the market. Some traditional gems, like turquoise and pearls, remain popular due to their lower cost and wider availability. Others, like spinel and tanzanite, have gained prominence as modern additions to the birthstone chart.
Gemological Properties: A Brief Overview
While a detailed gemological analysis is beyond the scope of this article, it is important to note the key properties of garnet and topaz. Garnets are a group of silicate minerals with varying chemical compositions, resulting in a range of colors and properties. They typically have a hardness of 6.5 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale. Topaz, a silicate mineral containing aluminum and fluorine, boasts a hardness of 8 on the Mohs scale, making it a relatively durable gemstone. Topaz is known for its perfect basal cleavage, which means it can be easily split along a specific plane.
Further Exploration and Resources
For those seeking a deeper understanding of birthstones, several resources are available. Historical texts like Gemstones: Symbols of Beauty and Power by Annette Anderson and The History of Gemstones by Richard T. Liddicoat offer valuable insights into the origins and evolution of these traditions. Recent industry reports, such as the 2023 Jewelry and Watch Report by McKinsey & Company, provide data on current consumer preferences. Additionally, books exploring the cultural significance of gemstones, like Jewels: A Secret History by Victoria Finlay and The Lore of Birthstones by Bernardine Fine, offer fascinating perspectives on the symbolism and mythology surrounding these captivating gems.
Conclusion
The story of birthstones is a testament to the enduring human fascination with gemstones and their perceived powers. From ancient astrological associations to the modern standardization efforts of the jewelry industry, the tradition of linking gems to months of the year continues to evolve. Garnet and topaz, as prominent birthstones for January and November respectively, exemplify this dynamic process, embodying both historical significance and contemporary appeal. The increasing availability of options and the growing emphasis on personal choice ensure that the tradition of birthstones will remain a vibrant and meaningful part of our cultural landscape.