Onyx holds a significant place in the world of gemstones, recognized for centuries as a birthstone for both July and August. While often overshadowed by more vibrant gems, onyx possesses a rich history, intriguing symbolism, and a distinctive aesthetic that continues to captivate. This article will explore the historical journey of onyx as a birthstone, its geological characteristics, cultural significance, and its enduring appeal in modern jewelry.
A Dual Designation: July and August
For a considerable period, onyx was widely accepted as the primary birthstone for July, a tradition dating back to the 15th century and encompassing Jewish, Roman, and European cultures. However, in 1912, the National Association of Jewelers (now Jewelers of America) standardized birthstone lists, designating ruby as the primary July birthstone. Despite this change, onyx retained its status as an acknowledged alternative or secondary birthstone for July.
Interestingly, onyx also boasts a historical connection to August, being considered the “ancient” birthstone for those born in this month. August’s birthstone lineage is complex, with peridot designated as a “traditional” stone and spinel gaining recognition as the “modern” choice in 2016. This dual association highlights onyx’s enduring presence in birthstone traditions across different eras and cultures.
Historical Significance and Cultural Lore
The history of onyx is deeply interwoven with human civilization. Its use in jewelry and ornamental objects dates back millennia, with evidence of its popularity in ancient civilizations. Throughout history, onyx has been valued for its perceived metaphysical properties, believed to offer strength, protection, and grounding energy.
The tradition of associating gemstones with birth months originated in medieval times, with roots tracing back to the Bible and evolving from practices in Poland and Germany. Over time, these traditions diversified, leading to the existence of ancient, traditional, and modern birthstone lists, often varying between North America and Europe. This explains the multiple birthstone designations for months like August, and the continued recognition of onyx despite shifts in official lists.
Gemological Characteristics
Onyx is a variety of chalcedony, a cryptocrystalline form of silica. Its defining characteristic is its banded structure, typically featuring parallel layers of different colors. While often recognized for its deep black hue, onyx can also exhibit bands of white, brown, red, and green. The granular structure of onyx makes it ideally suited for shaping and polishing into cabochons, beads, and intricate carvings, such as cameos.
Notably, onyx is not known for its brilliance or sparkle due to its light-absorbing properties. However, skilled lapidaries can cut onyx with delicate facets to create a subtle shimmer, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. The availability of onyx in a rainbow of colors and variations allows for diverse jewelry designs, catering to a wide range of preferences.
Symbolism and Metaphysical Beliefs
Throughout history, onyx has been imbued with symbolic meaning. It is widely regarded as a stone of strength and protection, believed to absorb negative energy and promote grounding. This symbolism likely stems from its dark color and perceived ability to provide a sense of stability and resilience.
The association with the zodiac sign Leo, which spans part of July, further reinforces onyx’s symbolic connection to the month. Beyond its protective qualities, onyx is also believed to enhance self-control, decision-making, and confidence. These metaphysical beliefs contribute to its enduring appeal as a gemstone with deeper meaning.
Onyx in Jewelry and Modern Applications
Today, onyx continues to be a popular choice for jewelry, appreciated for its sleek, sophisticated look and affordability. It is frequently used in rings, pendants, earrings, and bracelets, often set in silver or gold to complement its dark color. The versatility of onyx allows it to be incorporated into both classic and contemporary designs.
While natural onyx is still available, lab-created cubic zirconia in peridot green is often used in August birthstone jewelry to capture the beautiful hue and sparkle of peridot at a lower price point. However, for those seeking the unique aesthetic and historical significance of onyx, a wide range of jewelry options are available, including vibrant green and striking black onyx pieces.
Care and Cleaning
Onyx, with a hardness of 6.5-7 on the Mohs scale, is relatively durable but requires proper care to maintain its luster. Regular cleaning with warm, soapy water and a soft cloth is recommended. Avoid harsh chemicals, abrasive cleaners, and ultrasonic cleaners, as these can damage the stone’s surface.
Like all jewelry, onyx pieces should be stored separately to prevent scratching from other gemstones or metals. Periodic professional cleaning and inspection by a jeweler can help ensure the longevity and beauty of onyx jewelry, addressing any loose stones or damaged settings.
Conclusion
Onyx stands as a testament to the enduring allure of gemstones with a rich history and symbolic depth. From its ancient origins as a revered stone of strength and protection to its modern role as a versatile and affordable birthstone, onyx continues to captivate jewelry enthusiasts and collectors alike. Its dual designation as a birthstone for both July and August underscores its lasting significance in birthstone traditions, offering a compelling choice for those seeking a gemstone with both aesthetic appeal and meaningful symbolism.